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Belgrade’s biggest park hugs the confluence of the Danube and Sava rivers.Its shaded paths take you past medieval fortifications, museums, a zoo, gardens, churches and some wonderful views of both rivers.
It’s full of modern takes on traditional Serbian homeware as well as clothes, jewellery, gifts and wine – all done by small-scale producers and artisans. Belgrade has many food markets, but the best is south of Stari Grad in the Vracar district.
Open daily 10am-6pm (open till 8pm on Thursdays and closed Tuesdays); 300 dinars (£2.25) entry.
In Knez Mihailova, look out for the stately entrance to Zepter Museum (zeptermuzej.rs) – another compelling and large collection of Serbian modern and contemporary art.
Get a second dose of New Year’s Eve in Belgrade, where the old Julian calendar in use by the Serbian Orthodox Church means that everything is 13 days later.
Christmas Eve was on 6 January, bringing people out to the sprawling Sveti Sava temple to watch the ritual burning of the Serbian oak version of the Yule log, before getting merry on rakija (brandy).